DIY Arduino Proto-Shield


Personally I would say Arduino is one the best tool a hobbyist, expert or beginner, can have.

Experts may find it very useful for rapid prototyping of their design ideas and beginners will surely enjoy the high level approach of programming. It is easy to learn, very straight forward, yet simple.

With all of the advantages offered by Arduino there’s one thing I don’t like with it. The pitch between digital pin 7 and 8 is not standard, and I’ll bet non of the locally available prototyping boards (universal PCB) would be suitable for it.

 

*Images Courtesy of : Project Blog

 

At first look the 0.04” offset between a standard header spacing and Arduino is barely noticeable but the problem becomes evident when you try to squeeze a standard spaced shield in. If you do this you’ll probably notice the header’s pin would slightly bend due to the offset.

*Images Courtesy of : Project Blog

 

For those of who have the luxury of time, the problem can be easily addressed by developing their own shield and go through the pain of fabricating their own PCBs.

Many prefer to buy commercially available shields but the price of those shields maybe far off the budget of a middle class hobbyist. Some will just bend the pins and make it fit on Arduino.

Another solution is we can modify a prototyping board to  make it compatible with Arduino. I prepared a tutorial on how it can be done.

Step 1 – Prepare the Materials

Materials needed for the project are, 1pc e-Gizmo EGPC-02 universal PCB,  2pcs 16×1 female header, 2pcs 8×1 long leaded female header, and 2pcs 6×1 long leaded female header.

You’ll also need a super glue, soldering iron and solder, PCB drill or office cutter, and #20 or #22 stranded wires.

Description Price*

1pc e-Gizmo EGPC-02

Php 10.00

2pcs 16×1 female header

Php 30.00

2pcs 8×1 long leaded female header

Php 22.50

2pcs 6×1 long leaded female header

Php 14.50

Total Price**

Php 77.00

* Prices are true as of 20101013 and may vary depending on vendor and location

**Total Price does not include the price of the tools that will be used and other constructing materials like solders and wires

 

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Step 2 – Insert the Headers

Insert 1 of the 16×1 female header on the universal PCB starting at coordinate B-22 and the opposite end should fall at B-7.

Insert the other 16×1 female header at the opposite side of the board starting at Q-22 and the opposite end should fall at Q-7.

10192010263

 

Insert 1 of the  6×1 long leaded header on coordinate starting at R-22 and its end must fall at R-17. Skip 1 hole along column R and insert the other 6×1 long leaded header at coordinate R-15, its end must fall at R-9.

10192010264

 

Solder the pins on the opposite side of the board. Don’t be bothered if you noticed that the long leaded headers are connected on the power trace. It is intentional.

Step 3 – Insert the 8×1 Long Leaded Headers

Insert the 8×1 long leaded headers on the Arduino’s Digital IO pins as shown on the diagram below.

10192010265

 

Step 4 – Glue the Headers

Insert the leads of the universal PCB we have prepared  at the opposite end of Arduino (Analog Pins and Power Pins).

Using a super glue, glue the pins of 8×1 long leaded header on the universal PCB.

10192010266

 

Step 5 – Cut the  Power Traces

If you can recall, we have connected the 6×1 headers on the power trace. Connection between the header’s pins must be cut, it can easily be accomplished using a PCB drill or an office cutter.

10192010268

 

Step 6 – Make Connections

Pins of the 16×1 headers must be connected to the pins of the long leaded headers nearest to them.

We can use #22 or #20 stranded wires to make connections between the 8×1 long leaded headers and the 16×1 header.

The 6×1 long leaded headers are connected to the adjacent 16×1 header by soldering.

10192010272

 

Step 7 – Connect the +5V and GND

Connect Arduino’s +5V supply pin to one of the power trace (N-12 and M-12, this will become the Vcc of the Proto-Sheild).

Connect Arduino’s GND pin to the remaining power trace (E-8 and F8, this will become the Gnd of the Proto-Sheild).

5V and GND Connections

Finally we’ll have a Proto-Shield that is cheap and can be easily expanded because standard headers is provided (16×1 female header) to allow stocking of additional Proto-Shields on top of it without going through the process of gluing the headers and cutting the power trace.

10192010276

Below is and example of how DIY Proto-Shields can be stacked. Additional shields require only soldering the long leaded headers on top of it.

10192010280

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~ by glutnix_neo on October 23, 2010.

One Response to “DIY Arduino Proto-Shield”

  1. […] Comprar conectores de patas largas y doblar los pines necesarios: https://undergroundworkbench.wordpress.com/2010/10/23/diy-arduino-proto-shield/ […]

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